G.

A modern dance interpretation of the classical ballet Giselle’s infamous Queen of the Wilis, set to Abba

Choreography: Emily Kessler

Costume Designer : Toya Dubin

Dancers: Nicole Caruana, Claude Johnson, Demi Remick, Taylor Railton

Corset

I designed and made this corset based on a patented pattern by Emile Savoye in 1904 with some minor modifications. What is particularly interesting about this pattern is that all of the seams run in horizontal curves. Most corset and bodice style patterns feature vertical seams which create opportunities to adjust them to the curves and measurements of the wearer. A vertical orientation of the seams is particularly useful when going over curved areas of the body because it allows you to take volume away or add it to areas that need it. This pattern instead uses horizontally curving seams, levering changes in the grain of the fabric as it stretches and wraps around the body to conform to the wearer and carefully placed seam lines to eliminate the need for a bust dart.

Corsets are fitted incredibly precisely to the wearer. This wearer had scoliosis, so you will see in these images that there is a minor difference in the patterning on the left and right sides of the corset to accommodate the difference in curvature of the wearer’s body from left to right. When worn, this creates the illusion of a perfect waist line and makes it a comfortable garment. Care was taken to match the pattern on the fabric so that the flower motif flows uninterrupted across the front busk seam. The corset is made of coutil and silk brocade, with spiral steel and flat steel boning encased in cotton and flannel.

Emile Savoye’s Pattern

Ballet Costumes

These tutus were made for dancers of the Orange County Ballet Company. Each one took over 100 hours of labor, and they all feature a minimum of 10 yards of hand pleated tulle.